Review: Romulo Café London – A Vibrant Celebration of Filipino Cuisine
Nestled on Kensington High Street, Romulo Café & Restaurant was a beacon of Filipino culinary heritage in London until its closure in January 2024. For eight years, this family-run establishment, led by Rowena Romulo and Chris Joseph, introduced diners to the vibrant, multifaceted flavors of the Philippines, blending Malay, Spanish, Chinese, and American influences. With heirloom recipes from the Romulo family and a warm, homely ambiance, the restaurant earned accolades as one of London’s premier destinations for Filipino cuisine. This 2,000-word review reflects on Romulo Café’s legacy, exploring its food, atmosphere, service, and cultural significance, while incorporating insights from diners and critics. Though the Kensington location has closed, its sister restaurant, Kasa and Kin in Soho, continues to carry the torch for Filipino flavors.
A Family Legacy Rooted in Diplomacy and Culinary Art
Romulo Café was more than a restaurant—it was a tribute to the legacy of Carlos P. Romulo, a Pulitzer Prize-winning Filipino diplomat and former President of the United Nations General Assembly, and his wife, Virginia Llamas-Romulo, a beauty queen and masterful hostess. Virginia’s recipes, used to impress dignitaries at diplomatic dinners, formed the backbone of the menu, passed down to her granddaughters, Sandie and Rowena. Sandie opened three Romulo Cafés in Manila starting in 2009, while Rowena, with her husband Chris, brought the concept to London in 2016, aiming to put Filipino cuisine “on the map” in the UK.
The restaurant’s backstory added depth to the dining experience. Photos of Carlos with world leaders adorned the walls, while the lime-green and grey decor, recently revamped by award-winning CADA Design, evoked a chic yet welcoming Filipino home. This blend of heritage and modernity set Romulo apart, making it a cultural hub for London’s Filipino community and a gateway for newcomers to the cuisine.
The Cuisine: A Melting Pot of Flavors
Filipino cuisine is a vibrant tapestry, reflecting centuries of trade, colonization, and cultural exchange. Romulo Café’s menu showcased this diversity, offering dishes that balanced tangy, savory, sweet, and acidic notes, often with a refined presentation tailored to London’s discerning diners. The food was designed for sharing, encouraging a family-style dining experience that mirrored Filipino values of community and hospitality.
Starters: A Flavorful Introduction
The starters were a highlight, introducing diners to Filipino staples with bold flavors. The Sizzling Chicken Inasal Sisig (£8.75) was a crowd favorite, featuring diced chicken thighs marinated in annatto, ginger, green chili, garlic, and lemongrass, served on a sizzling skillet. Diners raved about its “sensational harmonious blend of taste,” with one reviewer noting the dish’s aroma hit before the first bite. The Sugarlandia starter, a Filipino ceviche (kinilaw) with lime-scented poached prawns in coconut milk and sweetcorn fritters, was equally impressive, earning praise for its fresh, meaty prawns and crunchy fritters.
The Kalamansi-Cured Tuna Ceviche offered a lighter option, with high-quality tuna, native lime, ginger, and beetroot chips. Some found it more salad-like than traditional ceviche, preferring a stronger citrus soak, but its freshness was undeniable. The Pandesal bread basket, featuring artisanal Filipino rolls baked fresh four times daily, was a delightful accompaniment, perfect for soaking up sauces.
Mains: Hearty and Innovative
The mains showcased Filipino classics alongside creative twists. The Dingley Dell Pork Belly Adobo was a standout, slow-cooked in soy, garlic, and rice vinegar, served with a trio of potatoes. Reviewers described it as “melt-in-the-mouth,” with the sweet potato base balancing the tangy sauce. The Truffled Chicken Adobo Romulo Style elevated the national dish with Norfolk chicken marinated in soy, garlic, and cane sugar, scented with black truffle, earning accolades for its exceptional flavors.
Seafood lovers lauded the Chargrilled Stuffed Squid (Rellenong Pusit), stuffed with tomato, cheese, onion, garlic, and annatto oil, served on squid ink rice with mango salsa. Its tender texture and vibrant presentation made it a dish “you hesitate to cut into” but couldn’t resist. The Coconut Chilli King Prawns in a lobster bisque sauce were generous in portion, though some found the coconut milk and olive oil made it slightly doughy.
Vegetarian options were robust, with dishes like Young Jackfruit and Coconut Stew and Grilled Aubergine Adobo Style earning praise for their meaty texture and earthy flavors. The Tito Greg’s Kare-Kare, a peanut butter-based oxtail stew with aubergine and bok choy, was a nod to tradition, though its richness required a light hand with portions.
Desserts: A Sweet Finale
Romulo’s desserts were a tour de force, blending Filipino ingredients like purple yam (ube) and jackfruit with playful presentation. The Ube Cheesecake, vibrant purple and topped with shredded coconut, was a showstopper, described as “indescribable” and one of 2018’s top cheesecakes by critics. The Sans Rival, a layered cake of dulce de leche buttercream, cashews, and chewy meringue, was “addictive,” with diners scraping every crumb.
The Halo Halo was a whimsical medley of ube ice cream, banana puree, jackfruit, leche flan, pandan jelly, and coconut, served with milk-infused crushed ice. Its mix of textures and flavors was a must-try, though its richness demanded sharing. The Filipino Banana Split, with ube, mango, and coconut ice cream on grilled plantains, offered a tropical twist on a classic.
Ambiance and Service: A Home Away from Home
Romulo Café’s ambiance was a blend of cozy and chic, housed in a former Georgian townhouse with lime-green accents and black-and-white photos of Carlos Romulo. The 80-seat space felt like a family dining room, fostering a sense of warmth and belonging. The recent refurbishment by CADA Design added a modern edge, with vibrant decor that reflected the Philippines’ colorful culture.
Service was a highlight for many, with staff described as “friendly,” “knowledgeable,” and “accommodating.” Waiters guided diners through the unfamiliar menu, recommending sharing plates and explaining dishes’ origins. Special occasions, like birthdays and engagement parties, were handled with care, with staff allowing decorations and adapting to late arrivals. However, some diners noted occasional lapses, with waiters lacking enthusiasm or service starting slow, though it often improved.
The restaurant’s role as a community hub was evident, with Filipino diners and embassy staff endorsing its authenticity. Its recognition as Time Out’s “Most Loved Restaurant in Kensington” three times and Best Bar/Restaurant at the Kensington and Chelsea Business Awards underscored its local impact.
Drinks: Cocktails with a Filipino Twist
Romulo’s drink menu was as creative as its food, offering cocktails that complemented the cuisine’s bold flavors. The Pinoy Mai Tai was a hit, with diners craving seconds for its balanced sweetness. The Ube Martini, made with vodka, Malibu, and purple yam, was a vibrant, nutty delight, while the Batangas Bad Boy—a smoked blend of Talisker, Laphroaig, cigar-infused Zacapa Rum, and orange bitters—arrived with theatrical flair and a whole cigar.
Non-alcoholic options like Calamansi Juice, a citrus drink akin to lemonade, were refreshing, and the Royale Spritz offered a low-alcohol choice for lighter moments. The wine list focused on New World reds and aromatic whites, designed to stand up to the cuisine’s intensity, with most available by the glass.
Cultural and Culinary Significance
Filipino cuisine, often called “Asia’s best-kept culinary secret,” is underrepresented in London, making Romulo Café’s mission vital. Its menu reflected the Philippines’ history, with Spanish influences in dishes like Chicken Relleno (stuffed with chorizo and jamon) and Malay-Chinese notes in adobo and sisig. Ingredients like annatto (for color) and calamansi (a fragrant lime) added authenticity, though the latter was sourced as frozen juice due to import restrictions.
The restaurant’s refined approach softened the cuisine’s traditionally bold flavors—vinegar, soy, and garlic—for Western palates, earning praise from Filipino expats who preferred it to the “in-your-face” versions back home. Critics lauded its balance of tradition and innovation, with dishes like Truffled Chicken Adobo and Ube Cheesecake showcasing executive chef Jeremy Villanueva’s skill, honed at Le Gavroche and Brasserie Roux.
Romulo’s closure, announced on January 8, 2024, was attributed to economic challenges, including lockdowns and price increases from the Ukraine war. Yet, its legacy endures through Kasa and Kin, a Soho restaurant offering a contemporary take on Filipino cuisine.
Highlights and Critiques
Strengths
- Authentic Flavors: Dishes like Pork Belly Adobo and Stuffed Squid delivered bold, harmonious tastes, earning rave reviews.
- Desserts: The Ube Cheesecake and Sans Rival were unforgettable, blending tradition with indulgence.
- Ambiance: The homely yet stylish decor created a welcoming vibe, ideal for gatherings.
- Service: Attentive, knowledgeable staff enhanced the experience, especially for Filipino cuisine novices.
- Cultural Impact: Romulo elevated Filipino cuisine’s profile in London, earning awards and community love.
Critiques
- Price Point: Some diners found prices high compared to other cuisines, though portions were generous for sharing.
- Inconsistent Service: Occasional slow starts or unenthusiastic staff detracted from the experience.
- Bold Flavors: A few dishes, like Chicken Relleno, were too salty for some, and the ceviche disappointed ceviche purists.
- Closure: The permanent closure left fans disappointed, though Kasa and Kin offers a continuation.
Tips for Visiting Kasa and Kin
While Romulo Café’s Kensington location is closed, Kasa and Kin (52-53 Poland Street, Soho) continues the Romulo family’s legacy with a modern spin. Here are tips for enjoying it:
- Book Ahead: The smaller space fills quickly, especially for groups.
- Try Sharing Plates: Order small plates like sisig and ceviche to sample variety.
- Save Room for Dessert: The Ube Cheesecake and Halo Halo are must-tries.
- Explore Cocktails: The Pinoy Mai Tai or Ube Martini pair well with the food.
- Ask for Guidance: Staff can explain dishes, especially for Filipino cuisine newcomers.
Final Thoughts
Romulo Café & Restaurant was a culinary gem, bringing the soul of Filipino cuisine to London with authenticity, warmth, and flair. Its heirloom recipes, from sizzling sisig to vibrant Ube Cheesecake, showcased the Philippines’ rich culinary heritage, while its cozy ambiance and attentive service made every visit feel like coming home. Despite its closure in January 2024, Romulo’s impact lingers, having introduced countless diners to a cuisine that blends Spanish, Malay, Chinese, and American influences into something uniquely Filipino.
For those who missed Romulo Café, Kasa and Kin in Soho offers a chance to continue the journey, with contemporary takes on the dishes that made Romulo a beloved name. Whether you’re a Filipino expat craving a taste of home or a foodie eager to explore new flavors, the Romulo family’s legacy promises a dining experience that’s vibrant, heartfelt, and unforgettable. So book a table, arrive hungry, and let the flavors of the Philippines captivate your palate.