Introduction to Ikoyi
In the heart of London, Ikoyi stands as a beacon of culinary innovation, proudly holding the distinction of being the UK’s first Michelin-starred restaurant inspired by Nigerian and West African cuisine. Founded in 2017 by childhood friends Iré Hassan-Odukale and Jeremy Chan, Ikoyi has redefined fine dining by blending bold West African spices with hyper-seasonal British ingredients. Located at 180 The Strand since its relocation in November 2022, this two-Michelin-starred gem offers a tasting menu that surprises and delights, challenging preconceptions about African cuisine while earning global acclaim. Named after an affluent district in Lagos, Nigeria, Ikoyi is not just a restaurant—it’s a cultural statement, a celebration of flavor, and a testament to the power of creativity in the kitchen.
Ikoyi’s journey to Michelin stardom began with its first star in 2018, just a year after opening, followed by a second in 2022, making it a standout in the 2025 MICHELIN Guide United Kingdom. Its inventive approach, led by Chef Jeremy Chan’s analytical yet artistic vision, has placed it among the world’s elite, ranking 10th in the UK at the 2024 National Restaurant Awards and appearing on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. This article explores Ikoyi’s rise, its groundbreaking cuisine, cultural significance, and tips for hosting an Ikoyi-inspired dining experience, offering a deep dive into why this restaurant is a must-visit for food lovers worldwide.
The Vision Behind Ikoyi
Ikoyi was born from the shared ambition of Iré Hassan-Odukale, who grew up in Lagos, and Jeremy Chan, a Chinese-Canadian chef with a Princeton education and fine dining pedigree from Noma, Hibiscus, and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. Their goal was not to replicate traditional Nigerian dishes but to create a new cuisine that respects West African ingredients as “artifacts,” analyzing their flavors and aesthetics to craft dishes that are bold, precise, and unexpected. As Chan told Eater London, Ikoyi’s cuisine is about stocking a “flavour pantry” with sub-Saharan spices like penja peppercorns, uda, and ndole leaves, paired with premium British produce to elevate both.
This approach initially sparked confusion. Early diners, expecting classic West African fare, were surprised by dishes like plantain with raspberry salt or jollof rice infused with smoke and crab. Some, as The Guardian noted, found the lack of “authenticity” puzzling, while others embraced the innovation. Over time, Ikoyi’s refusal to be pigeonholed won over critics and diners, proving that West African ingredients could shine in a fine dining context without adhering to traditional recipes. The restaurant’s name, inspired by a cosmopolitan Lagos neighborhood, reflects its ethos: a fusion of global influences rooted in Nigerian heritage.
Ikoyi’s Culinary Philosophy
At Ikoyi, the menu is a blind tasting experience, with no à la carte options since its early days. Priced at £350 for dinner (Monday–Saturday) and £150 for a shorter lunch (Wednesday–Saturday), the 12–14-course tasting menu is a journey through bold heat, umami, and seasonality. Chan’s dishes, described by Great British Chefs as “intelligent, precise, and unique,” marry West African spices with British micro-seasonal ingredients—think sustainable line-caught fish, aged native beef, and organic vegetables. Signature dishes include:
- Smoked Jollof Rice: A theatrical highlight, presented under a smoky haze with grilled lobster and lobster custard, reimagining the West African staple with finesse.
- Plantain with Scotch Bonnet and Raspberry Powder: A vibrant, visually striking dish that balances sweet, spicy, and tart notes.
- Suya with Peanut Butter Miso: A nod to Nigeria’s national dish, this reimagined suya features malted barley bread stuffed with crayfish yaji and caramelized mushrooms.
- Aged Turbot with Egusi Miso: A fusion of British seafood and Nigerian egusi seeds, showcasing Chan’s knack for layering umami.
Chan’s philosophy, as shared with South China Morning Post, emphasizes umami to trigger “mouthwatering reactions,” using ingredients like Nigerian peppercorns and Asian miso to create complex, craveable flavors. The open kitchen at 180 The Strand, designed with Danish architect David Thulstrup, allows diners to witness this artistry, with every dish served on custom crockery by ceramicists Jess Joslin and Owen Wall.
Cultural Significance and Impact
Ikoyi’s Michelin stars—first in 2018 and second in 2022—marked a historic moment for African cuisine in the UK. As OkayAfrica reported, it became the first African-inspired restaurant in London to earn this honor, shining a spotlight on Nigerian and West African gastronomy. Posts on X from 2018 celebrated this milestone, with users like @NaijaFlyingDr calling Ikoyi a “shining light” for Nigerian cuisine. This recognition challenged the systemic oversight of African culinary traditions in fine dining, as Eater London noted, placing West African ingredients in a sphere previously dominated by European, Indian, and Chinese cuisines.
The restaurant’s success has broader implications. By showcasing ingredients like ogbono, iru, and banga bisque in a high-end context, Ikoyi has elevated the perception of African food, inspiring chefs and diners to explore its depth. Its influence extends beyond London, with TheCable suggesting that Ikoyi’s stars pave the way for African-based restaurants to gain Michelin recognition. Yet, Ikoyi’s approach—prioritizing innovation over authenticity—has sparked debate. Some diners, as seen in Eat Cook Explore, felt the Nigerian “DNA” was subtle, while others, per Tripadvisor, praised its boundary-pushing flavors. This tension underscores Ikoyi’s role as a provocateur, challenging diners to rethink culinary identity.
The Ikoyi Experience
Ikoyi’s new home at 180 The Strand, a brutalist landmark near Somerset House, is a far cry from its original St. James’s Market location. The Scandi-inspired dining room, with mustard leather chairs, red oak tables, and a woven steel-mesh ceiling, balances warmth and precision. The space, described by CN Traveller as a “cocoon,” features an open kitchen, outdoor terrace, and private dining room for six, where dishes are served on a near-invisible turntable for added elegance.
Service is impeccable yet informal, with staff guiding diners through the blind tasting menu. The wine list, curated by sommelier Lorenzo Lentini, spans classic and obscure regions, while cocktails like the palm punch (rum, palm wine, baobab) incorporate West African ingredients. A non-alcoholic tea pairing, served in Yunomi cups, adds a thoughtful touch. Reservations open on the first of each month at 12:00 PM GMT, often booking out two months in advance, reflecting Ikoyi’s cult status.
Recipe: Ikoyi-Inspired Plantain with Scotch Bonnet and Raspberry Powder
While Ikoyi’s tasting menu is complex, you can recreate its bold spirit at home with this simplified dish inspired by their iconic plantain course. This recipe serves 4 as an appetizer.
Ingredients
- Plantain: 2 ripe (yellow with black spots), peeled and cut into ½-inch rounds
- Scotch Bonnet Pepper: 1, finely chopped (or ½ for less heat)
- Raspberries: ½ cup, freeze-dried and ground into powder (or use store-bought raspberry powder)
- Butter: 2 tablespoons (or olive oil for vegan)
- Honey: 1 tablespoon
- Salt: ¼ teaspoon
- Cilantro: 2 tablespoons, chopped, for garnish
- Optional: 1 tablespoon toasted peanuts, crushed, for texture
Instructions
- Prepare Raspberry Powder: If using freeze-dried raspberries, pulse in a spice grinder until fine. Sift to remove seeds and set aside.
- Cook Plantain: Heat butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add plantain rounds in a single layer and cook for 3–4 minutes per side, until golden and caramelized. Remove and drain on paper towels.
- Infuse with Scotch Bonnet: In the same skillet, add honey and Scotch bonnet. Cook for 1 minute, stirring, until fragrant. Return plantain to the skillet, tossing to coat lightly. Sprinkle with salt.
- Assemble: Arrange plantain on a serving plate. Dust generously with raspberry powder and sprinkle with cilantro and peanuts (if using).
- Serve: Serve warm as an appetizer, paired with a chilled white wine or palm wine-inspired cocktail.
Tips
- Heat Level: Adjust Scotch bonnet to taste; it’s fiery. Wear gloves when chopping.
- Raspberry Powder: Find freeze-dried raspberries at specialty stores or online.
- Presentation: Mimic Ikoyi’s artistry by arranging plantain in a neat stack or line.
Hosting an Ikoyi-Inspired Dining Experience
Inspired to bring Ikoyi’s magic to your table? Host a tasting menu-style gathering with these steps, drawing on Ikoyi’s ethos and cookbook club principles.
Step 1: Plan the Menu
Create a 5–7-course tasting menu inspired by West African flavors and British ingredients:
- Amuse-Bouche: Plantain with Scotch bonnet and raspberry powder.
- Starter: Prawns in a banga bisque with corn fritters.
- Main: Grilled chicken with efo sauce (spinach and parsley) and iru.
- Side: Smoked jollof rice with crab or mushrooms.
- Dessert: Mango and ogbono pudding with buttermilk foam.
- Drinks: Palm punch cocktail or hibiscus tea.
Encourage guests to contribute a course, experimenting with spices like uda or yaji.
Step 2: Set the Ambiance
- Venue: Host in a dining room or kitchen with an open cooking area.
- Decor: Use earthy tones—mustard napkins, copper accents, and ceramic plates—to echo Ikoyi’s aesthetic. Add dried grasses or single stems for minimalist elegance.
- Music: Play Afrobeat or Nigerian artists like Burna Boy for a lively vibe.
Step 3: Engage Guests
- Blind Tasting: Keep dish details a surprise, revealing ingredients after each course, as Ikoyi does.
- Storytelling: Share the history of Nigerian cuisine or Ikoyi’s Michelin journey, using insights from OkayAfrica or TheCable.
- Demo: Prepare the plantain dish live, explaining the interplay of sweet, spicy, and tart flavors.
Step 4: Share the Moment
Encourage guests to photograph dishes and share on social media with #IkoyiInspired. This builds community and celebrates the experience.
Challenges and Criticisms
Ikoyi’s bold approach hasn’t been without hurdles. Its high price point (£350 for dinner) and avant-garde flavors have drawn mixed reviews. Some Tripadvisor diners found the spices “overpowering” or the experience “disappointing” compared to other Michelin-starred venues, while others praised its uniqueness. The original St. James’s location, in a corporate development, faced challenges with foot traffic, as Eater London noted, prompting the move to 180 The Strand. Additionally, Ikoyi’s departure from traditional Nigerian recipes has sparked debate about authenticity, with some craving more overt Nigerian “DNA.”
Yet, these challenges highlight Ikoyi’s strength: its refusal to conform. By prioritizing flavor over expectation, it has carved a niche that’s both polarizing and groundbreaking, earning praise from CN Traveller as “London’s most innovative restaurant.”
The Future of Ikoyi
Ikoyi’s relocation to 180 The Strand marks a new chapter, with a larger space allowing for refined techniques and an expanded wine list. Chan and Hassan-Odukale continue to push boundaries, with Chan’s Phaidon cookbook documenting their “bold heat and spices” philosophy. As African cuisine gains global recognition—evidenced by chefs like Adejoke Bakare’s Michelin star for Chishuru—Ikoyi remains a trailblazer, inspiring a new generation of chefs to explore the continent’s flavors.
Conclusion
Ikoyi is more than a restaurant—it’s a culinary revolution. As the UK’s first Michelin-starred Nigerian-inspired eatery, it has shattered stereotypes, elevated West African ingredients, and redefined fine dining. From its smoked jollof rice to its plantain with raspberry powder, every dish tells a story of innovation, heritage, and fearless creativity. Whether you dine at 180 The Strand or recreate its flavors at home, Ikoyi invites you to experience food as art, challenging your palate and expanding your culinary horizons. In a world where authenticity is often demanded, Ikoyi proves that the most authentic cuisine is one that dares to be itself.
